Monday, September 26, 2016

Dipping Our Toes Into Dalmatia

(Dateline: Chris)


Our AirBnB host picked us up from the Port of Dubrovnik and dropped us off at our flat, where we would stay for a month. We were all on our own, in a country none of us had ever been to, where we didn't speak the language at all and there were signs everywhere for things like ljekama, ulica and tisak. For example, here's what it says on our wine bottle: Vinarija Dingač Plavac 2011 Kvalitetno vino plavac mali Vinogorje Pelješac. Right, I'll have the red.


????!!! Go right I guess?
In Italy, sure, I don't speak Italian, but with the French I have and a fairly solid grounding in English (My mom says so!), I can often figure out what a sign means. In Croatia, we saw our first road sign and never thought we'd know anything again.


Luckily, it turns out that Croatia is super easy. Everyone here speaks nearly flawless English, way more so than in Italy. Jen, Otis and I have tried to learn some Croatian so that we could at least say hello (dobar dan), please (molim) and thank you (hvala) to the very many helpful Croatians who stopped us from stepping in front of a bus.

It also made it easy on us that we chose to stay in Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is a small city (50,000 some residents) on the Dalmatian Coast, that looks like it is out of a fairytale (and indeed, it is where a lot of Game of Thrones is set). As you may have seen with Jen's Facebook art piece "What's In Port Today," Dubrovnik gets tons of cruise ships with tons of tourists and the locals are very used to us, and accept us, I believe, as the cornerstone of the Dubrovniki economy.




See more comparison photos between real-world Dubrovnik and Game of Thrones here
Dubrovnik has cheap and easy busses, 12 Kuna ($1.80) for an hour's worth of rides. It is geographically small and easy to walk, and it is largely set up on cliffs above the crazily beautiful Adriatic so every walk will provide you with a view. 


The sunset at President Beach, a mile or so from our flat
Dubrovnik has a number of neighborhoods. Most important for a tourist are Old Town, where all the fairy tales are, and Lapad, where the swim and sun resorts are. Our Airbnb being in Lapad also helped make life easy.


Jen and Otis at the Croatian "beach," which is often a nice rock to sit on, with maybe a ladder to help you in and out of the crystal clear water


Just up the road from us is a small market called Pemo, and (while it took us a few days to realize this), there's a larger market another two blocks away called Tommy (which comes in regular, super and hyper sizes) so shopping is easy, and Lapad has a promenade that leads down to the bay. Lapad is like the Epcot Center version of San Diego. Sun, sea, resorts, gelato and palm trees.




So, after few days of acclimatization, we found ourselves in a VERY easy place to live. Some of the best swimming we've seen is a short walk away, a magical UNESCO world heritage site is about 2 miles away and our comfortable and affordable apartment was a perfect base for explortation. We will stay in Lapad from August 30 to September 29, with a few side trips (Kotor Montenegro, Mostar Bosnia & Herzegovina, the Elaphite Islands and Mjliet are popular junkets), and catch you all up on our adventures as soon as we can manage.
Otis with the sub-marine GoPro selfie


One of our first views of Kings' Landing Old Town Dubrovnik


One of our favorite spots in Dubrovnik is this bar that advertises itself has having "Cold Drinks With the Most Beautiful View;" the drinks were fairly cold, but the view was as advertised 


A panoramic view of Old Town from the top of the Dubrovnik Cable Car



Old town from the City Walls, I am told that the homes with bright orange tiles were homes that replaced their roofs after the shelling perpetrated by Serbia & Montenegro during the Siege of Dubrovnik in 1991-1992





Friday, September 23, 2016

Taking the Ferry From Bari to Dubrovnik



The moment came when we had to bid Italy farewell. Sniff sniff but...onward.

We headed north from Lecce to Bari in the late afternoon, making an unremarkable drive the two or so hours along the coast. We were booked on the overnight ferry to Dubrovnik.
I had scoured the internet for tips and tricks on taking the ferry because I did not want us messing this up! There were a few moving parts because Chris was dropping Otis and I off at the ferry terminal with our luggage, returning the rental car to Bari's airport, then taking a taxi back to meet us.
I am very glad that I didn't indulge in our occasional casual attitude. The internet is littered with complaints and concerns of frustrated travelers who had made the same trip.

The tricky bits are mainly the following points:

1. One's reservation is not one's ticket. I think many of us are now fairly used to being able to wave an online reservation and be allowed access to our train/bus/plane/concert. Not so when you're sailing the Adriatic with Jadrolinija. You need to go to the ferry office (which is one among many) to get an actual ticket to board the ferry. The office is not well marked from the road, although it is obvious once you pull in.

2. The people handing tickets out at the Jadrolinija office do not automatically tell you where to go to get the proper ferry. You wait in a long long long long line to get your ticket but you are not told that the place where you are *which very much looks like a place you would catch a ferry because there are people there waiting to catch a ferry* is not where you need to go. You need to go about 2 kilometers down the main port road, drive through a checkpoint and go to another waiting area. This could have led to some major complications if Chris had left us in the wrong spot with all of our baggage!

Ticket Pickup Area. Don't be fooled by all the cars waiting to board a ferry. It isn't your ferry.

Not your ferry waiting spot. Move along.
All of this information is pretty widely available online but we add our voice to the cries: leave plenty of time, and double-check where you may be going!

Chris returned the car without incident and met us back at the terminal's waiting area where we were reading.

Waiting to board, yay Kindles
Once onboard, we were shown into our small room (with sink, but shared WC) in the very deep bottom of the ferry. You had better believe that I was looking all over for multiple exits. We went up and saw the twinkly lights of Bari recede in the distance. It seemed hard to believe that our month in Italy was over.

We walked around the ferry, observed the folks who were sleeping on the decks with just sleeping pads ("Can you do that?" Chris asked. Indeed you can!), had some family drama over cake and life and the unfairness of it all, then it was lights out in our tiny bunk beds.

Ciao Italia






In the morning, I went up above deck to catch a first glance of Dubrovnik. It was so pretty to see it in the distance, under the bright blue sky that I almost forgot how tired I was. The ferry leaves Bari at 10 or so if you aren't boarding it on the late side (don't ask) and has a scheduled arrival of 8 am. I didn't sleep especially well and had a headache from the family drama and hitting my head on the bunk above me. However, I was excited! I had a good feeling about this place as we approached.

Rolling off of the ferry
Crankytimes
We docked uneventfully and disembarked, heading through a quick passport control. I texted our Airbnb landlady who had generously offered us a lift from the port to our apartment. We settled in under the Port of Dubrovnik sign and waited for her. We were on to our next chapter! Dobrodošli!




Thursday, September 22, 2016

Our Top Pictures from Italy

Italy Photograph Hall of Fame

(Dateline: All three of us)

Even though it feels like a while since we have been in Italy, we keep the experiences close to our heart. We all picked out our favorite photos from our month there.

JEN'S PICKS


There is a room in the Accademia with so much sculpture! I loved this wall of busts and wondered about their history.

The Montclair kids playing in the Piazza Santa Maria Novella on a warm and beautiful night.

Waking up to this view in Tuscany was wonderful.

This sign in Lecce really does speak to almost all of my favorite things -- just missing friends and family on this list.

Not super flattering but a quiet moment on our really nice walk in Cinque Terre.


CHRIS'S PICKS


Otis looks like he's plucked right from one of those National Geographic "life some place you've never been" features they used to run.

Jen and I sprung for the beach chairs AND the umbrellas for one when we visited Amalfi. Ah, the good life.

Otis mugs for the camera in front of the ludicrously clear Adriatic waters on the Otranto Waterfront

Otis and Jen looking like super models in front of the Roman Pantheon

Otis finishes our long walk back from Vernazza to Monterosso in Cinque Terre National Park

Domestic bliss as we leave the train in Roma Station

The family snatches a rest on the way to Boboli Garden in Florence

OTIS'S PICKS


view from our window in the hotel in Venice

flower pot in Venice

nuns getting gelato

nice view of the ocean in Monterosso Al Mare

Rocks in the ocean in Monterosso Al Mare

Hiking in Cinque Terre

Dinosaur in Nikki De Saint Phalle's sculpture garden

Statue of a baby in a museum in Rome

Rock off the coast of Monterosso Al Mare

Cave in Monterosso Al Mare

Leaning tower of Pisa

View from the window in Tuscany

Pool in Tuscany

View of the ocean in Cinque Terre

Beach in Sorrento

Museum in Rome

Beach nearby Lecce

My mother and I in front of ancient roman ruins

Museum in Florence

View out the window of our rental car driving to Tuscany