Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Tuscany Day Trip: Niki de Saint Phalle's Tarot Garden


We set off for Niki de Saint Phalle's Tarot Garden in southern coastal Tuscany with a pretty good idea of what we would see. We figured that we would have a pleasant (if not warm) drive through the countryside and show up and see some sculptures that the sculptor had created based on the tarot deck. Reasonable, right?

Niki de Saint Phalle was one of Chris's great aunts and the three of us are fairly familiar with her work, having seen her sculpture installations in New York, San Diego and Washington DC. In fact, my parents live close to her other sculpture park in Southern California so we have visited that several times. While we can recognize the important space Niki occupies as an artist, none of us were prepared -- or interested in -- an historic, intellectual or academic treatment of her work (for some of that, see a recent New Yorker article). At the same time, even with such a relaxed attitude, I don't think any of us were planning on the sense of pure enjoyment we experienced while visiting the garden.

It was mega super ultra hot when we pulled into the parking lot. We had stopped at the Coop [a grocery store chain, not a progressive cooperative for foodstuffs] for some groceries and we had a car picnic, making sandwiches and drinking drinks. We lined up for tickets, entered the park and walked up the short hill in the hot hot weather. Fa molto molto caldo!


The first thing you encounter is a fountain, surrounded by other sculptures. It is a bright and dramatic approach to what is going to be a very vivid and spirited experience.




We spent plenty of time viewing all of the sculptures, many of which one can go into, touch and experience in a physical beyond gazing.







There is a ton to look at given Niki's colorful mosaic style. Despite the whimsical nature of the art, if you look more closely, her work has a message and meaning.








We loved the little plaza with a fountain in the center and each surrounding column decorated very differently.








The entire park is amazing, but The Empress is perhaps the most incredible (naturally). The exterior towers over one side of the park while the interior (where the artist lived for a while) is mirrored mosaic everywhere. It is a magical experience.
















We all ended up really appreciating our visit here -- it was extremely fun despite the heat. With so much to see and be amazed by, we had a great experience, as did all of the visitors around us. I have a suspicion that is just what Niki de Saint Phalle had in mind for this installation.



The guest book shared a body positive perspective


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